Looking out to Middlesbrough
After a luxurious night in Richmond, the next day of my Coast to Coast walk finished in much less glamorous fashion. I arrived in Ingleby Cross after walking nearly 25 miles in eight and a half hours. The guidebook had warned that this was not the most exciting day’s walk and I have to agree. Very flat. Lots of fields. One point of interest will feature in a future post. Suffice to say I collapsed in bed with very tired legs and some impressive blisters.
On the way to Clay Bank Top
The next day’s walk to Clay Bank Top was more varied and interesting. Furthermore, since it was the weekend, the trails were much busier with day-trippers. The day was also notable for my first glimpse of the sea. It’s hard to see in the above photo but far on the horizon I could see Middlesbrough and the North Sea. The promise of ocean was a welcome boost, although that then meant a certain degree of frustration – so close and yet so far away.
Salmon fishing in the Esk
Grosmont
And so on Sunday, I decided to skip the path and do some different exploring. The village of Grosmont in Eskdale owes its existence to the railway. In the 1830s, the Whitby-Pickering Railway led to the rise of a growing iron industry. Today it is a charming village, popular with fishermen, walkers, and train enthusiasts. There are two railway stations adjacent to each other – one for Northern Railways, the other for the North York Moors Historical Railway, better known to a generation of children for its appearance in the Harry Potter series of films. The magnificently maintained steam locomotives run regularly between Pickering and Whitby.
While waiting for the train, take the time to wander through the old tunnel, believed to be the oldest passenger tunnel in the world. Built to accommodate George Stephenson’s horse-drawn railway in 1829, it leads to some old train sheds, where restoration work is still carried out. Just before the tunnel, the Old School Coffee Shop offers sandwiches, drinks, and a glimpse into the village’s past.
Beggar’s Bridge
Barely five miles from Grosmont is the village of Glaisdale, and it is here that I spent the night before making my way back past the steam trains and on to Littlebeck.
One point of interest at the edge of the village is the Beggar’s Bridge. The bridge is accompanied by a romantic tale of old. In the 17th century, beggar Thomas Ferris fell madly in love with the local squire’s daughter. They lived on opposite sides of the river. Ferris was determined to make his fortune, to prove himself worthy of her hand, and so he planned to sail the high seas. The night before he set out, a storm blew in, rendering him unable to cross the river to wish his beloved farewell. In true fairytale style,, there is a happy ending. Ferris made his fortune and returned to marry his true love. According to local lore, he built the Beggar’s Bridge across the river so that future lovers would not be separated.
Beggar’s Bridge
The next morning was a pleasant day, perfect for an equally pleasant stroll along the River Esk, through Egton Bridge and back into Grosmont. Then a steep climb out of the village back onto the moors. From there it was just a few miles to Littlebeck, a tiny hamlet. But the storms were blowing in, and I had just one more day of walking to reach my destination: Robin Hood’s Bay.
Where to Stay – Glaisdale
Beggar’s Bridge Bed and Breakfast is situated just behind the tiny Glaisdale Railway Station and overlooks the titular bridge. The conservatory overlooks the river and the beautiful gardens, teeming with pheasants. It’s a short walk to the nearby pub which serves a wonderful Sunday lunch.
Where to Stay – Littlebeck
Given the short distance from Littlebeck to Robin Hood’s Bay, it might be very tempting to push on to your final destination. But doing so would mean you miss out on the chance to stay at Intake Farm and to enjoy one last evening of pastoral peace. The bed and breakfast is on a working farm, owned by Judith and Robert. With a little advance notice, Judith will provide a delicious evening meal; I enjoyed a hearty homemade beef stew, cauliflower cheese, and crumble with custard. Just as delightful as the food is the cosy lounge, complete with old-fashioned stove. I spent a very happy afternoon here, curled up in a huge armchair with a book while the winds raged outside.
