British Food and Travel

Located at the northern end of the Forest of Dean, not far from the Welsh border, the market town of Ross-on-Wye is the ideal stop for a few nights while exploring the surrounding area. I spent a few days there earlier this summer and found it an excellent base for several day walks as well as some general relaxation.

Ross-on-Wye

Ross-on-Wye makes the rather bold claim to be the birthplace of British tourism. In 1745, a local vicar began taking groups of friends for short cruises along the river. Word spread, demand grew, and soon eight different boats were making regular trips.

Even if you are just passing through, there are some points of interest within the town. The main landmark is St Mary’s Church. It has a sizeable graveyard which leads through to The Prospect, a peaceful garden with views extending to Wales on a clear day.

The Market House building stands, appropriately enough, in the middle of the town’s market square. The upstairs is used as an art gallery, Made in Ross, highlighting many of the area’s crafts people and artists.

You’ll also notice various metalwork sculptures around town and by the river. These are the work of Walenty Pytel, a Polish-born artist who has a home and studio nearby.

The Thomas Blake Memorial Garden pays tribute to a local benefactor. Steps and terraces wind their way between rich shrubbery and flowers, providing a peaceful place to sit and ponder. The footpath then leads down to and along the River Wye. If you’re interested in canoeing or kayaking, this is where the local rental companies depart from.

John Kyrle Walk

You won’t be in Ross-on-Wye very long before you start seeing and hearing about John Kyrle, a much-loved local philanthropist in the 17th century. After studying law at Oxford, he inherited his father’s house in Ross-on-Wye and spent the rest of his life here as a bachelor. He lived modestly, using his wealth to better to local community. He helped the poor and sick, installed a water pump to supply clean water, and laid out public gardens overlooking the river. Kyrle is buried at St. Mary’s Church.

If you just have a few hours to kill and so don’t want to embark on a long walk, the John Kyrle Walk is a 3.3 mile loop around the town, reportedly one of Kyrle’s favourite strolls. The route follows the river before turning back to town through some woodlands and taking in the church and gardens at The Prospect. You can find maps of the walk in many local shops, including Truffles Deli.

Brampton Abbotts Walk

A slightly longer, but equally enjoyable walk, follows a loop out along the river through fields to the little village of Brampton Abbotts. On the way out of town, don’t forget to turn back to catch the iconic view of Ross-on-Wye, the church steeple and town above the river. St Michael’s Church in Brampton Abbotts is now closed to the public for safety reasons. However, we recommend taking some time to admire the view and browse the churchyard before returning to town via more farmland. Watch out for farm machinery and mud!

Goodrich Castle

Goodrich Castle is an English Heritage property that stands some five miles from Ross-on-Wye. Although an easy drive or bus ride, you can also reach it by several walking routes. Learn about its medieval origins and its role in the English Civil War. Roaring Meg, the only surviving Civil War mortar, is on display in the courtyard, as is a pile of cannonballs recovered during the 1920s. Meanwhile, in the chapel, you will find two impressive stained glass windows, one commemorating Britain’s armed forces, the other commemorating the Millennium and inspired by the local community.

The onsite tearoom offers drinks, snacks, and lunches — ideal for refueling before walking back to town.

Where to Stay

I stayed at the Old Court House. Located on the High Street, this charming 16/17th century bed and breakfast is within just a few minutes’ walk of shops, restaurants, and the River Wye.

A few hundred yards from the Old Court House, The King’s Head Hotel offers a welcoming combination of history and hospitality. Also nearby, the Royal Hotel offers views across the river into Wales.

If you’d prefer more privacy or if you have a larger group, you can find a variety of property rentals through Holiday Cottages. (This is an affiliate link. Clicking on it won’t cost you anything but might make a few pennies towards the upkeep of this site.)

Where to Eat

Truffles Delicatessan on the High Street is THE place to pick up sandwiches, salads, and all sorts of delectable items for a picnic. Bottles of local mead and some gourmet Forest of Dean sausage rolls beat a takeaway burger anyday. There are a few tables inside the deli but nip down the side alleyway to find a wonderful hidden garden. You’ll forget you’re just steps away from a bustling market square.

I enjoyed several dinners at The King’s Head during my stay. Even if you’re not in the mood for something more substantial, they offer a cheeseplate with selection of local cheeses. A board of Stinking Bishop, Hereford Hop, and Perl Las goes well with a bowl of their soup of the day.

Ross-on-Wye also has a fine selection of international restaurants, including Nepalese, Indian, and Turkish.

For More Information:

Ross-on-Wye is an accredited “Walkers are Welcome” town. Every September, the town hosts a three-day walking festival. For more details about the festival and area walks, visit Walking in Ross.

Visit Ross-on-Wye is the town’s official tourist site, with details of where to stay, what to do, and upcoming events.