Although it looks close on the map – just the other side of the Thames from Kent – I had never really been to Essex until recently. I’d been through it dozens of times, on my way to somewhere else via the Dartford Tunnel. But Essex? It always conjured up images of big commuter towns just outside London, of the TV show Birds of a Feather, and later of bad reality TV (apologies to TOWIE fans).
But on a recent visit, I saw another side of Essex. A charming combination of coastal towns and rural villages. It seems I owe Essex an apology. So if you want to spend a few days discovering peaceful coastal walks not far from the nation’s capital, read on.
Day 1: Head to Essex
Our final destination, Bradwell-on-Sea, was only a few hours’ drive from the Kent coast, which meant we could put off heading out until after the Monday morning rush hour. Then it was a simple drive up the Thanet Way, through the Dartford Tunnel, and into Essex. We stopped along the way to visit Rayleigh Mount, a National Trust property. Rayleigh Castle was the only Essex castle to have been mentioned in the Domesday Book. The castle fell to time and decay long ago, but the mound where it once stood is now a wonderful little park in the middle of the town of Rayleigh. There’s no charge to visit, and it was an ideal spot to stretch our legs and walk the dog.
Legs suitably stretched, we continued on our way, stopping off for a late lunch and to pick up a few supplies before heading to the farmhouse where we would be staying for the next few days. we had time for a quick wander around the village before settling into our cottage, and enjoying a lazy evening of wine, cheese, and TV.
Day 2: Sea Salt and Witches
Refreshed and ready to explore, we started our day by driving up to Maldon, home of the famous sea salt. Promenade Park is a huge waterfront park, the largest in Essex, with tons of activities including a model boating lake, splash park, sand play area, and much more. The park has been open since 1895 and is a true treasure for the locals and visitors to enjoy. Parking spaces are plentiful, so we were able to wander alongside the water and enjoy the views across the Blackwater Estuary. Visit the statue of Byrhtnoth, a local hero who battled the Vikings in 991; go wildlife spotting in the designated areas; and stop for a cup of tea before meandering along the quay to see the barges. If time permits, you can also book a dinner or lunch excursion on one of the barges.
Next up was a trip towards the coast to the village of St Osyth. This was actually the inspiration for my trip to Essex. A while back, I listened to an episode of Not Just the Tudors about the witch trials in Essex and I wanted to learn more. Most people have heard of the witch trials in Pendle, Lancashire, but Essex saw many more women hanged. So when I heard about the new Tendring Witch Heritage Trail, I was quite excited. Unfortunately, there was not as much to see as I had hoped. The museum in St. Osyth is only open at weekends and so I came away feeling that much more could be done to explore this fascinating part of history, and hopefully it will as funds permit. Nevertheless, it is a nice little village and I encourage you to read about the Essex witch trials and Witchfinder General Matthew Hopkins. Also stop by the Cage, where suspected witches were held awaiting trial. (My attempts to take a photo were thwarted by a car parked outside!)
Back in Bradwell-on-Sea, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at The Green Man. Fabulous food and a wonderful dog-friendly atmosphere.
Day 3: Trains and Gardens
One of the challenges of holidaying with your four-legged friend is finding places that are truly dog-friendly. Many places claim to be but in practice mean that your dog is welcome… to stay outside. We found a good number of dog-friendly pubs, restaurants, museums, and more in Essex that were more than happy to allow our dog to enter and often provided water or snacks. (I will not mention the one RHS garden that warned dogs were not allowed even in the car park).
Our first pet-friendly stop of the day was the East Anglian Railway Museum. Attached to a still-operating train station, the museum is surprisingly large and extends much further than you first realise. A small army of volunteers lovingly restore a collection of trains from across the ages and the results of their hard work are all on display. It’s a nostalgic look back through the days of train travel.
After a morning of trains, we headed to the Markshall Estate, an arboretum of 200 acres plus 2,000 additional acres of ancient woodland. With miles of trails, you can stretch your legs and admire the beautiful landscape. Admission also includes a bag of fish food to feed the lake’s hungry koi. Then stop by Mrs Salisbury’s Famous Tea Rooms for some refreshment (and a sausage for your doggy companion).
Day 4: Mersea Island
The Blackwater Estuary has several islands that are only reachable with favourable tides. Osea Island is a privately-owned exclusive resort, although viewers of the 2012 film “Woman in Black” will recognise its long causeway. Northey Island can be reached during low tides by foot visitors wishing to visit its nature sanctuary. The biggest and best known is Mersea Island. Located where the Blackwater and Colne Estuaries meet, the island is linked to the mainland by a short causeway. If the high tides rise above 4.5 metres, the island’s 7,000 or so residents just have to stay put. But when the tides permit (which is most of the time) the seven-square mile island is a popular destination for tourists. Do check the high-tide times before going and use caution. You don’t want to be among those needing to be rescued because they think they can beat the waters. As the island’s website cautions, cars do not float.
The main town on the island is West Mersea. Here, you can browse shops and cafes, walk along the seafront, visit the beach, and view the famous colourful beach huts (which I now want to own). Afterwards, we headed to the eastern part of the island, stopping for a bite of lunch and gift-shopping at Mersea Barns before continuing to Cudmore Grove Country Park. The park is the perfect spot for scenic coastal walks, bird spotting, and a few bits of history (especially WWII-era coastal defenses). Fossil hunters might also uncover something unusual. Monkey, bear, and bison fossils have all be discovered along this part of the coast.
If you want more dining options, many of the island’s pubs receive excellent reviews. Alternatively, you may be fortunate enough to snag a spot at Stark. This tiny but exclusive restaurant relocated here from Broadstairs a few years ago and is run by Michelin-star chef Ben Crittenden.
Day 5: Time to Head Home But First…
By Friday it was time to head back to Kent. Remember, though, that I said the drive was a relatively short one. That meant we had plenty of time to do a seven-mile walk around the Bradwell-on-Sea area, heading out to the ancient Chapel of St. Peters on the Wall, past the decommissioned power station, and along the shoreline to the marina before heading back inland through the village. Much of this land is designated as a nature sanctuary. The habitat provides shelter for migrating birds, as well as numerous species of butterflies and other insects, some of which are unique to the area.
Centuries ago, the Romans built a fort here to protect against Saxon invaders. In the 7th century, long after the Romans had left, St Cedd used the site as a church and monastery. Although much of the original construction has been lost to the tides and time, the chapel and parts of the original Roman walls remain.
As for the power station, it’s largely the reason people stayed in this isolated part of Essex. When it opened in 1957, it provided jobs for many local residents. Operations ceased in 2002, and the plant is now in the process of being decommissioned, with demolition expected by 2093!
All that walking gave us an appetite so we made a brief stop in Battlesbridge for lunch and a spot of antique-hunting before braving the Friday afternoon traffic around London on our way home.
Where to Stay
As mentioned above, we stayed in a charming farmhouse just outside Bradwell-on-Sea, rented via Sykes Cottages. You can find other cottage rentals through our affiliate links for Rural Retreats and Holiday Cottages UK.
If you’re travelling from overseas and need a data plan, I highly recommend eSIM. I used their SIM cards throughout my five-week trip and found them easy to use and very reasonably priced. Check them out at the affiliate link above.
