British Food and Travel

For the last few weeks I have been sharing highlights from my Coast to Coast walk. It is now time to leave my penultimate stop and to proceed to my final destination: Robin Hood’s Bay.

Little Beck Wood and Falling Foss

Despite a stormy afternoon and evening at Intake Farm, the next morning’s skies were much clearer. I left the farm, walking down through the tiny hamlet of Littlebeck and up into Little Beck Wood. According to guidebooks, these woods are an excellent area for wildlife spotting with deer, foxes, and badgers making their homes here. Sadly, I did not see any woodland creatures but I did enjoy the walk, accompanied by birdsong. I wound my way past the Hermitage, a man-made cave with the date 1790 etched above the entryway. Then on to Falling Foss. The 30 foot high waterfall is a popular destination for visitors to Whitby and the surrounding area. During the summer, the adjacent tea garden provides afternoon tea and refreshments in beautiful surroundings. But on this October morning, not a soul was to be seen.

I continued through the woods along May Beck. One more stretch of moor land and soon I reached a sign announcing only three and half miles to Robin Hood’s Bay. Pass through the village of High Hawkser and past some caravan parks to the clifftop walk that links the Bay and Whitby. If you are here on a blustery day and feel a little concerned about being so close to a rather perilous drop, there is a cycle path a little further inland that offers an alternative route.

Robin Hood’s Bay

I made it! Even better – the last part is downhill, through the steep cobbled streets to the Bay Hotel, official end of Wainwright’s Coast to Coast walk. After the obligatory selfie at the marker, it was time to explore.

The earliest recorded signs of inhabitants in this tiny fishing village date back to approximately 1000 AD. Danes settled in the area, but the Norman conquest a few decades later drove most of the residents away. A new settlement grew in the early 16th century, with earliest mention of Robin Hood’s Bay being in 1536. The name comes from a local legend that claims the famed outlaw fought off pirates who had looted the village. A charming tale, but unproven historically.

For centuries, the Bay’s economy centred on fishing, farming, and smuggling. Today, it is a popular tourist resort, and rightly so. Close to both Whitby and Scarborough, Robin Hood’s Bay offers a peaceful getaway. While there, visit the Old Coastguard Station and the town museum (the latter is open at limited times). And of course don’t forget to spend plenty of time walking along the beach.

Where to Stay: Robin Hood’s Bay

The final night of my walking trip was spent in style with a four-poster bed at the Clarence Dene Bed and Breakfast. Landlady Louise offers a friendly welcome and an excellent selection of breakfast options, including the local speciality – Whitby Kippers. The Clarence Dene is just a few steps from the local shop and bus stop. Parking is available – a bonus given the village’s narrow streets. Dogs are also welcome, as long as they are well-behaved.

So ends my walk through North Yorkshire. There was mud, bog, laughter, rain, sun, plenty of sheep, and magnificent views. Would I do it again? Absolutely.

I booked my trip through Absolute Escapes and thoroughly recommend their service. I am not being compensated by them in any way – this has been an honest review. The staff’s friendliness in helping me put together my trip and the quality of accommodations they arranged were top-notch. Many thanks to Amanda and her colleagues.

 

Diary Thought

It seems only appropriate to finish with a few final thoughts from the diary I kept throughout my walk:

I feel oddly anticlimactic. I reached the sign marking the end of the walk and felt rather lost with no more path to follow. What next?

The next morning, as I strolled the length of the beach:

I could stay here forever watching the changing light across the water. I think I have found my perfect bliss in Robin Hood’s Bay.