The beautiful Romney Marsh in Kent has much to offer visitors seeking a peaceful getaway–wonderful coastline, pastoral country landscapes, picturesque villages. It also has some fascinating historic churches that tell a story of the marsh’s isolated past. In this post, we explore some of the intriguing churches of Romney Marsh.
St. Thomas a Becket, Fairfield
Fourteen mediaeval churches still stand in various locales across the marsh. Of these, the most famous is St. Thomas a Becket; you may recognise it from such TV dramas as Great Expectations. Standing alone amidst waterways and grazing sheep, there are no longer any indications of the village that used to be nearby. Nor is there any churchyard. Given the area’s propensity to flood, parishioners were buried elsewhere. For centuries, worshippers might be as likely to reach church by boat as they were to trudge across the fields. Now several causeways make access easier.
The original wooden church, constructed in about 1200, rather surprisingly survived well into the 18th century. It was then encased within plaster and later brick to provide a more sturdy structure. Although substantially restored in 1913, much of the interior is original to the Georgian period, complete with box pews, a triple-decker pulpit, and bright white paint. The timber framing of the arched roof is still visible, and visitors feel as if they have travelled back several centuries when they step inside. Also worth noting is the seven-sided font, unique to Kent.
The church is kept locked. However, the key is available from a farm just down the road. The heavy antique hangs on the outside wall. Be sure to lock the church and return the key after your visit. If you wish to attend services at St. Thomas a Becket, they take place at 10am the first Sunday of every month.
St. Clement, Old Romney
If the church of St. Clement in Old Romney also looks familiar, it may be because it featured in the 1963 film Dr Syn Alias The Scarecrow. Built in the 12th century but with evidence of a church on the site since the 8th century, it is one of the oldest churches in the county.
Unlike the church at Fairfield, this one avoids the floodwaters, thanks to the mound that it stands upon. Like St. Thomas, however, much of it remains original and unrestored, adding to the sense of travelling back in time that you feel when you enter. You can still see mediaeval door frames, as well as 18th century altar rails and box pews.
After browsing the interior, take some time to wander among the headstones in the churchyard. Film producer and former Dungeness resident Derek Jarman is among those resting here.
St. Augustine, Brookland
The church of St. Augustine at Brookland is probably quite unlike any other you have ever seen. After all, how many churches have an octagonal bell tower immediately adjacent? When first built, the wooden tower was open. Additional work doubled its size in the 15th century. The church itself dates to about 1260. Like many of its local companion churches, it still has box pews and an original Normal font.
Churches Lost to Time
For all of the wonderfully preserved mediaeval churches that dot the Romney Marsh landscape, there are more that have sadly been lost to the mists of time. At least ten other churches have fallen into ruin. You can still see a few stone walls here and there, so if you find some ruins as you cross the marsh, you might just have stumbled on a former place of worship.
