It may have gone out of fashion in some households, but a good trifle is a tasty delight that makes any day feel extra festive. It can be made quickly enough to serve for a special dessert during the week. Or you can really go all out and create something that will impress all of your guests at Christmas. That’s right. If you want an alternative to Christmas pudding this year, why not try a trifle!
What is it?
Ask half a dozen people about the essential components of a trifle and you may get very different answers. Some will insist that it must have jelly; others will declare no jelly but lots of custard; still others will insist on sherry while some prefer it without. Needless to say, it’s a recipe where everyone has their own preferences. Most modern trifles consist of a base layer of jelly, with sponge, lady fingers, or fruit in it. This is topped with custard, and a layer of whipped cream. But there is plenty of room for variation within that.
The name “trifle” is most likely derived from the French word “trufle” meaning an unimportant or whimsical thing. Presumably, this means that the trifle was intended as a piece of sweet whimsy on the dessert table.
Trifles were a feature of Elizabethan era feasts although they looked rather different to what we might think of today. Cow’s milk had replaced almond milk during the Tudor period and so cream was now a popular ingredient. Colin Spencer describes an Elizabethan trifle as “a thick cream flavoured with sugar, ginger, and rosewater” which I must admit sounds quite tasty. At the time, it would have been called either a trifle or a fool. Both were thickened cream mixed with fruit, sugar, and flavourings. Many Brits are still familiar with the idea of a gooseberry fool, even if they have never eaten one.
The trifle as we know it developed in the 18th century. The Georgians loved cream, and new metal whisks allowed for whisking it into all sorts of creations. In 1747, Hannah Glasse shared a recipe for a “Floating Island”. This consisted of layers of wine-flavoured cream, slices of cake, and currant jelly. Glasse described it as “very pretty in the middle of the table”. Within a few years, Elizabeth Raffald was sharing a similar recipe, using delicate little biscuits and topped with all manner of decorative sugar treats. These were likely the earliest forms of our beloved trifle.
In 1852, Frederick Bishop, a cook at St. James Palace, shared the following recipe:
Cover the bottom of the dish with Naples biscuits, and macaroons broken in halves, wet with brandy and white wine poured over them, cover them with patches of raspberry jam, fill the dish with a good custard, then whip up a syllabub, drain the froth on a sieve, put it on the custard and strew comfits over all.
Over time, the use of brandy, wine, or sherry led to it being nicknamed “Tipsy Cake”, a name as charming as trifle. By the Victorian era, the trifle had cemented its position as the quintessential British dessert. Charles Dickens was apparently rather fond, saying, “Trifles make the sum of life.”
Trifle remains a popular dessert today. Although you can buy a packaged mix, we recommend taking the time to make one from scratch for that special occasion. Feel free to play around with layers and flavours if you like. Fresh raspberries and strawberry jelly will be very different to tangerine segments and orange jelly, so pick what you like. Or be even more adventurous. For example, skip the jelly and layer fruit, cream, and gingerbread. There are dozens of options. But do remember to make it in a clear bowl so your audience can see all of those lovely layers. And don’t make it too far in advance; the layers will start to collapse and the cream will soften.
English Trifle
- 6oz/150g day-old sponge cake or ladyfinger biscuits
- 3 tbs brandy or Madeira wine
- 12oz/350g fruit of your choice – berries, mandarin segments, even canned fruit salad will work
- 1 or 2 packs jelly in the flavour of your choice. As with everything in this recipe, play around with colours, flavours, amounts.
- 4 egg yolks
- 2 tbs sugar
- 3/4 pt/450 ml single cream
- vanilla extract or rosewater (optional)
- 1/2 pt/300 ml double cream
- fruit or sprinkles to decorate
Break the sponge cake and ladyfingers into chunks and place in the bottom of a glass serving dish. Poour the brandy or Madeira wine over and leave to soak. Layer the fruit on top.
If you are using jelly, follow the packet instructions. Pour about 1/3 of the mix over the fruit and sponge. This will help to set them at the bottom of the bowl. Put in the fridge for a little while until it just starts to set and then pour the remaining jelly over. Leave to set.
Meanwhile make the custard. Whisk together the egg yolks and the sugar. Warm the single cream in a saucepan and then remove from heat. Carefully whisk into the egg yolks. Do this slowly. You don’t want to accidentally scramble the eggs! Now is also the time to stir in a few drops of rosewater or vanilla, if you like. Return the cream and egg mix to the pan and cook over a medium heat. Whisk constantly and do not be tempted to turn up the heat. Stir until it thickens, taking care not to let the mixture split. Once it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, remove from the heat and allow to cool. Stir occasionally while it’s cooling so it doesn’t form a skin.
Spoon the cooled custard over the jelly and fruit. About an hour before you are ready to serve, whisk the double cream until it is thick and forms stiff peaks. Spoon over the custard. Decorate with additional fruit or sprinkle and refrigerate until you are ready to serve.