British Food and Travel

For many travellers, Dover is simply a pass-through point for going to or arriving from France. They might stop long enough to visit Dover Castle. Other than that, they don’t give it much thought as a destination in its own right. Even growing up just along the Kent coast in Ramsgate, I never gave too much thought to Dover. But now that I think about it, I spent a fair bit of time in the area surrounding the town. From seashore adventures to ancient history, coastal walks to inland parks, Dover and its white cliffs have a lot to offer visitors.

Around Town

The town has some attractions that are worth a visit in their own right. They are a good way to escape the ever-changing coastal weather or to learn about the region’s history.

Dover has held a key position of importance for both trade and defence for centuries. Julius Caesar, William the Conqueror, Napoleon, and Hitler all set their sights on Dover as a means of invading this island nation. Whoever controlled Dover controlled access to the stretch of water linking it and France. They could control what came in and out of the country. The Dover Museum charts this extensive history with a series of entertaining displays that are ideal for all ages. An adjoining gallery features the remains of a Bronze Age wooden boat, uncovered by archaeologists in 1992. Both the museum and boat gallery are open daily. Admission is free.

After visiting the museum, walk a few minutes along the road to see the Roman Painted House. Archaeologists discovered the remains of this Roman hotel, believed to date from 200 CE, in 1970. In addition to the elaborate murals on display, you can also see some of the innovations that Roman residences enjoyed, such as the underfloor heating system. Check the website for seasonal hours.

Dover Castle

From its position above the cliffs, Dover Castle casts an ever-present watchful eye over the town below and the Dover Straits. On a clear day, you can see the French coast on the horizon as you stand next to cannons which once stood ready to fire upon French troops if Napoleon ever managed to attempt an invasion.

Every time I visit Dover Castle, I discover something new. Where else can you see a first-century Roman lighthouse or a World War II facility hidden deep in the cliffs? The castle has always been a popular tourist attraction, but it gained new attention in 2011. That’s when the secret wartime tunnels finally opened to the public. Dug into the famous white cliffs is a complex labyrinth of offices, a military control center, hospital, and so on. All of these played a key part in keeping Britain safe during World War II. During busy times, expect a lengthy waiting time to tour the tunnels. It’s worth the wait.

Even if you do decide to skip the wartime tunnels, there are others to explore. Another series of tunnels, built during a siege in the 13th century, were used as an underground barracks during the Napoleonic wars. Cannons still guard the defenses, although now all you see outside are rare-breed sheep.

Of course, there is the castle itself. Climb to the top of the keep for magnificent views. (Be warned, the keep is closed to the public on excessively windy days). Then work your way back down through the exhibits that fill the Great Tower. It was built by Henry II, husband to Eleanor of Aquitaine, father of Richard the Lionheart and Bad King John. He is perhaps best known though as the man whose alleged complaint: “Who will rid me of this troublesome priest?” led to the murder of Archbishop Thomas Becket in Canterbury Cathedral.

After a stop at the WWII-themed NAAFI Restaurant, venture further into the castle grounds to Saint Mary in Castro Church. The small church actually predates Dover Castle, and still contains some Roman-era tilework. Services are still held here. Next door to the church stands a Roman lighthouse from the first century; parts were rebuilt in the 1400s. It remains an impressive sight, particularly when you imagine it lighting the way across the Channel for Roman ships nearly 2000 years ago.

English Heritage manages Dover Castle and frequent events are planned during children’s school holidays so there will be plenty to entertain the little ones.

Exploring the Coast

The white cliffs of Dover are iconic, recognised worldwide and immortalised in the Vera Lynn song. While you are unlikely to see bluebirds when you visit, this beautiful spot on the English coast provides plenty of opportunities for walking and wildlife watching. The landscape of the chalk cliffs is a delicate one and so the National Trust undertakes the ongoing work of conserving this precious area. Many rare species of butterflies and birds can be found along here as well as, more unexpectedly, Exmoor ponies. The ponies wild graze, which helps with the biodiversity of the cliffs.

I used to occasionally visit a schoolfriend who lived along the cliff top at St. Margarets’. At night, I would fall asleep to the rhythmic flashes from the South Foreland Lighthouse. There has been a lighthouse on this precise spot since at least the 1300s, guiding sailors across the precarious Goodwin Sands. The current structure was built in 1846 and it was the first lighthouse to use an electric light. Decommissioned in 1988, South Foreland Lighthouse is now part of the National Trust’s White Cliffs property and tours are available from Friday to Monday. While there, also enjoy some afternoon tea at Mrs Knott’s tea-room, open daily. Also enjoy a stroll along the cliffs. It’s the perfect spot to fly a kite.

Another NT attraction along the white cliffs is the Fan Bay Deep Shelter. Visitors can take a guided tour of the tunnels which were built into the cliffs. As part of the tour, they will see the two sound mirrors dating back to World War I. The mirrors were an acoustic warning device, designed to amplify the sounds of any approaching boats or planes before they came into view.

After hours atop the cliffs, you might well want to get out onto the waters of the English Channel. Dover Sea Safari can help you with that. Their selection of boat adventures includes a trip along the coast to view seals at Pegwell Bay, a three-hour exploration of the historic Goodwin Sands, and a longer expedition to the Thames Estuary to see the Maunsell Forts. Private charters can also be arranged. All trips are led by experienced captains so you can be sure that you are in good hands.

Nearby Attractions

A brief drive up the coast brings you to two other English Heritage castles. Walmer Castle was originally built as a Tudor fortress but it soon settled into a more refined role as the home of the Lords Warden of the Cinque Ports. Formers Lords Wardens such as Sir Winston Churchill, Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, and the Duke of Wellington, Arthur Wellesley have all stayed here at one time or another. Wellesley spent 23 years in residence at Walmer. Many personal artifacts are on display, including the original Wellington boots and his death mask.

Within walking distance of Walmer is Deal Castle, built for Henry VIII in 1539 and taking the shape of a Tudor rose. Anne of Cleves rested here when she first landed in England. Centuries later, the castle was used to help guard the Kent coast.

For additional opportunities to enjoy the Kent coutryside, head to Kearsney Abbey and Russell Gardens, located in the Alkham Valley. Also, be sure to stop by Samphire Hoe, a 30-hectare area of land at the foot of the cliffs that was created during construction of the Channel Tunnel.

Getting There

Dover is easily accessible from London and other parts of Kent via train, bus, and motorway. A train ride from central London takes a little over an hour. Cross-channel ferry servies links Dover to continental Europe.

Where to Stay

As a busy port, there are dozens of accommodation options in Dover. The newly-opened Travelodge (available via our affiliate link to the right of this page) offers comfort at budget-friendly prices.

Those seeking a more personal touch during their stay may want to try one of the town’s many guesthouses. Maison Dieu Guest House is an award-winning Bed and Breakfast that is ideal whether you are stopping over for a ferry or planning a longer stay to explore the area. Owner and host Di French will be happy to share tips about local attractions and restaurants.